Tuesday, 29 July 2014

Bristol time

Moving a country from solar time to unified time is no easy matter (France had three separate kinds of time at one point). However, the railways made it a necessity: local time, which varied by minutes as one travelled east or west, was not really compatible with accurate railway timetables. Noon in Bristol, for example, is over ten minutes later than noon in London.When the Great Western Railway came to Bristol in 1841, it brought 'railway time' with it.

Bristolians had other reasons for wanting to know Greenwich Mean Time as accurately as local time. As a major seafaring port (it traded with America and the Caribbean, and was heavily connected to the slave trade), the city had plenty of people who needed GMT in order to calculate longitude and thus navigate accurately on the oceans. And in 1852, the electric telegraph arrived - with Bristol time creating the ridiculous situation of messages from London apparently arriving before they were sent. Within a few months, the city's public clocks moved from local time to GMT.


Today, few of us tell the time by the sun, so we don't notice the discrepancies between solar noon and the time on our clocks. For those who lived through the transition, though, the clock on Bristol's Corn Exchange with its two minute hands must have been very helpful. Installed in 1822 with just one minute hand set to local time, it was later given a second set to GMT. Only when the city' time was unified in 1852 was the Bristol hand removed; it was finally restored in 1989. 



Sunday, 20 July 2014

Cupboards-full of Roman wall


Eager to protect Londinium, the Romans built a wall around the city at the turn of the 3rd century, and kept working on it for the next 200 years. The wall was composed of Kentish ragstone rubble, held together with mortar, and interspersed with bright red stripes of tiles. It was adopted and adapted by later Londoners, until falling into disrepair in the eighteenth century. Today, only various fragments remain. 

Some pieces of wall are well-known and substantial; they can be found just outside Tower Hill tube station and alongside the Museum of London, for example. (If you want to explore in much more detail, the Museum of London's London Wall Walk is still available online, although many of the 23 information panels are now damaged or missing.) Other sections are in more surprising places - even an underground car park



Two pieces of late Roman wall find themselves in another surprising context. On the east side of Jewry Street is the former Sir John Cass College, built in 1902 and currently occupied by London Metropolitan University. Within its basement are the ancient fragments - carefully preserved, in a manner wholly evocative of twentieth-century education establishments, within glass-fronted cupboards. The larger piece even has a label. 






Sunday, 13 July 2014

Edwardian tourist tat

London is awash with tacky souvenirs: improbable snow globe scenes, inaccurate plastic postboxes on keyrings, child-sized fake policemen's hats. While cheap plastic may have helped in their proliferation, they are by no means a new thing. One of the cups in my lithophane collection is a perfect Edwardian example. 

What could say 'London' more clearly than a Delft-inspired rural scene? In fact, there is nothing obvious about this cup to suggest that it has anything to do with the metropolis.



However, a quick look inside the cup confirms that this is about generic cheapness rather than understatement or subtlety. The base of the cup takes us straight to one of London's best-known landmarks. Except...


Isn't the clock tower supposed to be attached to the Houses of Parliament? Which are bigger than they appear here? And isn't that rural road with the apparent lawn to one side meant to be Westminster Bridge and the Thames? In fact, hasn't this image been produced by somebody with only a vague idea of what the Houses of Parliament looks like?

So, next time a questionable souvenir catches your eye, just remember not to be nostalgic for the good old days!



Sunday, 29 June 2014

Ghost signs (112): beds on Whitechapel Road

At first glance, 201 Whitechapel Road is a pleasant Victorian building but not of particular interest. However, above each first-floor window is a painted sign: Bedding, Bedsteads, Feathers, Flocks. 


The building has a long past as a clothing shop, not unusual for this area. In 1871 it was a hosiery and menswear shop; in 1982 it housed a wholesale clothing manufacturer. Today, it is a retail clothing shop again. However, our signs presumably mark a break in such usage, since woollen flock was used to stuff mattresses: combined with bedding and feathers, it suggests that the shop sold not only bedsteads but also the mattresses and pillows to go with them.

In researching this post, I came across a lovely resource: Panorama High Street East, which has photographs of the length of Whitechapel Road and beyond, combined with all sorts of information on each building. It's a lovely way to explore this stretch of the East End!

Sunday, 22 June 2014

Tin tabernacle, battleship

Intended to be temporary structures, tin tabernacles were cheap flat-pack churches or chapels, ordered from a catalogue and erected quickly to tide the congregation over until a permanent structure was built. The corrugated-iron stop-gap then disappeared; but even those which weren't replaced were vulnerable to issues such as rust. As a result, they are relatively rare today, and seeing one is always a pleasure. The tin tabernacle in Cambridge Avenue, Kilburn is especially exciting, as its more recent life has given it an extraordinary interior. 


The Congregationalist chapel was built as part of a housing development in 1863, and developer James Bailey intended it to be replaced later with a more conventional chapel. However, his bankruptcy in 1866 was probably one reason that this never happened, so the iron structure is still standing over 150 years later. 

Transformations over the years included the addition of a total-immersion font at the east end of the building. By the early twentieth century, however, the chapel was falling out of use. During the Second World War, it was used as an Air Raid Precaution store. 


Soon after the war, the building was transferred to the Sea Cadets - who continue to occupy it today. They showed great ingenuity in transforming the interior into a battleship - using two old buses to do so. Information boards on all aspects of ships and shipping, from sails and knots to ship identification, were crafted using painted wood. The total immersion font and crypt were filled with concrete, and a Bofers anti-aircraft gun now stands in pride of place.



That same ingenuity furnished the naval chapel. The fittings come not from another place of worship but from the set of Becket, filmed in 1964 at Shepperton Studios with Peter O'Toole and Richard Burton. 

 
The tin tabernacle can be visited on most Saturday afternoons (contact them via the website to double-check). Donations are very welcome, as this fragile and extraordinary building is in desperate need of restoration, and a fund-raising campaign is underway.


I visited with the Victorian Society - find out more about their excellent events programme here


Friday, 13 June 2014

Open Garden Squares

Don't forget that this weekend is Open Garden Squares Weekend, when all sorts of London gardens and green spaces welcome visitors. One ticket (£12) gives you access to as many as you can visit in two days! 


I enjoyed it so much last year that this year, I'll be volunteering at the Brunel Museum on Saturday morning. As well as a charming herb garden - with cocktails in the evening - you can visit the extraordinary Thames Tunnel shaft, now an atmospheric concert hall. 


Another favourite of mine was Park Crescent, joined to Park Square by the Nursemaids' Tunnel. It also has cunningly-disguised ventilation shafts for the Underground station below, and some rather special plane trees.



Sunday, 8 June 2014

Ghost signs (111): gramophones


This ghost sign on Woolwich New Road is a bit of a mystery. Half of it has worn away, and the other half is not easy to decipher. However, it does include the words 'kept a--' and, most intriguingly, 'gramophones'. Any suggestions on what it advertised are very welcome!




Wednesday, 21 May 2014

London's cleanest bus

2014 is Transport for London's Year of the Bus. It's well-chosen, as this year is also the centenary of London's motor buses being sent to the Western Front, the 75th anniversary of the RT-Type, and the 60th birthday of the beloved Routemaster. 


To mark the year, London Transport Museum, TfL and the various operating companies have organised a series of events. These include a series of bus garage open days, and it was impossible to resist the chance to have a look behind the scenes at Catford Bus Garage. 


The Museum had brought along a number of vintage buses; there were stalls, refreshments and a cake; and of course, the opportunity to wander around the garage itself. One of the most popular activities was the chance to ride on a bus through the bus wash. 


In fact, having been through the soap and water every quarter hour throughout the day, I'm fairly sure that by the end, this Special Service was the cleanest bus in London!




There are more bus garage openings to come:

7 June - Alperton Bus Garage
21 June - Stockwell Bus Garage
28 June - Fulwell Bus Garage
5 July - Potters Bar Bus Garage
19 July - Walworth Bus Garage



Sunday, 4 May 2014

Stonehaven to Dunottar Castle

This blog has been a little neglected while I was on holiday; normal service will be resumed shortly! For today, some photographs of the walk from Stonehaven, a seaside town just south of Aberdeen, to Dunnottar Castle. The dramatically-located mediaeval ruin was the hiding place of the Honours of Scotland (its crown jewels) from Cromwell's troops.










Monday, 21 April 2014

Ghost signs (110): Royal Mile

Perhaps the biggest surprise on my first visit to Edinburgh's Royal Mile was the number of ghost signs on the close entrances along its length.