Suze

Having found several Suze ghost signs, I was curious to try the drink itself. Launched in 1889, this wild gentian-based aperitif is celebrating its 120th birthday this year and remains a major French brand.

Suze, distilled from gentian roots, was actually invented even earlier - in 1885 - by one Fernand Moureaux (or he may have bought the recipe from its Swiss creator). However, it was officially launched four years later to coincide with the Paris World's Fair, although it had to wait until 1898 for its distinctive bottle.

In the 1920s, a major advertising campaign was launched - those painted wall signs - and the aperitif has gained iconic status in France. Seven million litres are produced annually; at the end of every year, a special edition bottle is created by designers such as Christian Lacroix, Sonia Rykiel or Thierry Mugler. The drink itself is an attractive golden-yellow, and can be served neat over ice or with mixers. But what does it actually taste like?

The smell is of toilet cleaner, while the flavour is initially medicinal. That's the high point, though: it soon develops into a bitter taste reminiscent of the liquid painted on fingernails to break nail-biting habits. And that bitter taste lingers and lingers...

It's no surprise, then, that Suze has the same sort of love-hate reputation as Marmite. Since I'm definitely in the 'hate' camp, the only question is what to do with one nearly-full bottle of the stuff!